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Ready-to-Fruit block instructions

Use the search function (ctrl + F or equivalent) to find instructions for your species!

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*CAUTIONS AND CONSIDERATIONS FOR READY-TO-FRUIT BLOCKS- MMM is not responsible for any issues that arise from these kits including health issues. Please see considerations below.

IF YOU PLAN ON CONSUMING YOUR HOME-GROWN MUSHROOMS MAKE SURE TO COOK THEM THOROUGHLY*. IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME EATING A SPECIES, IT IS BEST TO START WITH A SMALL AMOUNT TO SEE HOW YOUR BODY RESPONDS!
*RED REISHI IS NORMALLY PREPARED IN A TINCTURE OR TAKEN AS A SUPPLEMENT WHEN GROUND AND DRIED.

MUSHROOMS PRODUCE SPORES AS THEY DEVELOP. THIS IS A NATURAL MEANS OF REPRODUCTION FOR THE FUNGUS. THEY USUALLY APPEAR AS A DUSTY SURFACE ON YOUR GROW KIT BENEATH THE MUSHROOM CAPS. PEOPLE WITH ALLERGIES OR COMPROMISED IMMUNE SYSTEMS MAY WANT TO CONSIDER PUTTING FRUITING MUSHROOM KITS OUTDOORS OR IN A WELL-VENTILATED AREA AS AIRBORNE SPORES SOMETIMES CAUSE RESPIRATORY IRRITATION. SPORES MAY ALSO CAUSE IRRITATION FOR SOME NON-ALLERGIC OR IMMUNE COMPROMISED MUSHROOM GROWERS, THOUGH THIS IS RARE. HARVESTING MUSHROOMS WHILE STILL IN THEIR YOUNGER GROWTH STAGES WILL REDUCE THE OVERALL SPORE LOAD.

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Black Pearl Oyster Block- Instructions for use:

This information is specific to Black Pearl Oyster.

  1. Check your block upon arrival to make sure there are no tears or signs of mold from shipping. If the block has broken into pieces during shipping, gently press the block together and let sit 4-7 days undisturbed (ideally in the dark) before moving to step 2.
  2. Slice a 1-2″ slit into the bag or a 1″ “X” into the side of the block. Be careful not to cut into the block itself and just cut the plastic.
  3. Fold down the top of the bag and deflate the block, tape the top down so that there is minimal room between the block and plastic except where the cut was made.
  4. Place the Ready-to-Fruit block in the most humid part of your home (not in direct sunlight) or in a grow chamber or grow tent. The kitchen is a good household place in lieu of a dedicated fruiting chamber. Black Pearl oyster fruits best between 60-75°F.
    Search online for easy to make fruiting chambers: monotubs, shot gun fruiting chambers (SGFCs) and tents with foggers/humidifiers are all great options and will likely increase success in fruiting and producing healthy fruits. Even a trash bag with plenty of holes can be used to increase humidity! If the Black Pearl oysters are produced in a fruiting chamber with less air exchange, they will have large stems and small caps similar to a king oyster.
  5. 2X daily (or more if your environment is dry) spritz the plastic with filtered/distilled water where the cut was made and look for mushroom “pins”. These are the start of mushrooms! Pins should take ~1-2 weeks to develop from the time of opening the bag.
  6. Continue to mist the fruits and plastic while they grow. Black Pearl Oysters are usually ready to harvest 5-10 days after pins form and should be harvested before the caps flatten out or become concave for tastiest results.
  7. Cut the mushroom cluster from the block and enjoy for your next meal!
  8. Soak the block in fresh, cold, distilled/filtered water for 1-6 hours while inside the bag (pour into the opening) and then drain
  9. Put block back into fruiting conditions, you should get at least 1 more “flush” of mushrooms from the block. If pins do not form at the cut site, consider opening the plastic at the site of the largest set of pins for subsequent flushes and sealing the original site with tape.

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Blue Oyster block- Instructions for use:

This information is specific to Blue Oyster.

  1. Check your block upon arrival to make sure there are no tears or signs of mold from shipping. If the block has broken into pieces during shipping, gently press the block together and let sit 4-7 days undisturbed (ideally in the dark) before moving to step 2.
  2. Slice a 1-2″ slit into the bag or a 1″ “X” into the side of the block. Be careful not to cut into the block itself and just cut the plastic.
  3. Fold down the top of the bag and deflate the block, tape the top down so that there is minimal room between the block and plastic except where the cut was made.
  4. Place the Ready-to-Fruit block in the most humid part of your home (not in direct sunlight) or in a grow chamber or grow tent. The kitchen is a good household place in lieu of a dedicated fruiting chamber. Blue oyster fruits best between 50-60°F but may fruit at ~50-70°F. The color will be more blue at lower temperatures.
    Note: If your fruiting conditions are on the 60-70°F side, consider leaving the block in a cooler part of your home (50-60°F) until pinning begins (see below) then moving back to the warmer temp. It is also possible to induce pinning with a “cold shock”- move the block to the fridge for 12-24 hours in a spot where it will not freeze and then move into fruiting conditions.
    Search online for easy to make fruiting chambers: monotubs, shot gun fruiting chambers (SGFCs) and tents with foggers/humidifiers are all great options and will likely increase success in fruiting and producing healthy fruits. Even a trash bag with plenty of holes can be used to increase humidity! If the Blue oysters produced in a fruiting chamber have large stems and small caps, more air exchange is needed.
  5. 2X daily (or more if your environment is dry) spritz the plastic with filtered/distilled water where the cut was made and look for mushroom “pins”. These are the start of mushrooms! Pins should take ~1-2 weeks to develop from the time of opening the bag.
  6. Continue to mist the fruits and plastic while they grow. Blue Oysters are usually ready to harvest ~3-7 days after pins form and should be harvested before the caps flatten out or become concave for tastiest results. If the mushrooms are producing white spores (look for a white dust on the surface below the cap) than it is time to harvest.
  7. Cut the mushroom cluster from the block and enjoy for your next meal!
  8. Soak the block in fresh, cold, distilled/filtered water for 1-6 hours while inside the bag (pour into the opening) and then drain
  9. Put block back into fruiting conditions, you should get at least 1 more “flush” of mushrooms from the block. If pins do not form at the cut site, consider opening the plastic at the site of the largest set of pins for subsequent flushes and sealing the original site with tape.

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Lion’s Mane & Lion’s Mane (High Temperature Tolerant) block- Instructions for use:

This information is specific to Lion’s Mane.

  1. Check your block upon arrival to make sure there are no tears or signs of mold from shipping. If the block has broken into pieces during shipping, gently press the block together and let sit 4-7 days undisturbed (ideally in the dark) before moving to step 2.
    Lion’s mane has notoriously thin and wispy mycelium, if the block appears uncolonized let it sit 2-4 days and it should begin to whiten.
  2. Slice a 1-2″ slit into the bag or a 1″ “X” into the side of the block. Be careful not to cut into the block itself and just cut the plastic. If there are mushroom pins, consider creating the opening around a group of pins.
    Lion's Mane mushroom pins on the ready-to-fruit kit
  3. Fold down the top of the bag and deflate the block, tape the top down so that there is minimal room between the block and plastic except where the cut was made.
  4. Place the Ready-to-Fruit block in the most humid part of your home (not in direct sunlight) or in a grow chamber or grow tent. The kitchen is a good household place in lieu of a dedicated fruiting chamber. Lion’s Mane fruits best between 60-75°F (60-85°F for the High Temperature Tolerant culture).
    Search online for easy to make fruiting chambers: monotubs, shot gun fruiting chambers (SGFCs) and tents with foggers/humidifiers are all great options and will likely increase success in fruiting and producing healthy fruits. Even a trash bag with plenty of holes can be used to increase humidity! If the Lion’s Mane produced in a fruiting chamber have large stems and long thin teeth, more air exchange is needed.
  5. 2X daily (or more if your environment is dry) spritz the plastic with distilled/filtered water where the cut was made and look for mushroom “pins”. These are the start of mushrooms! Pins should take ~1-2 weeks to develop from the time of opening the bag.
  6. Continue to mist the fruits and plastic while they grow. Lion’s Mane are usually ready to harvest ~7-14 days after pins form and should be harvested before the teeth elongate too much and produce spores for tastiest results.
  7. Cut the mushroom cluster from the block and enjoy for your next meal!
  8. Soak the block in fresh distilled/filtered water for 1-6 hours while inside the bag (pour into the opening) and then drain from the bag.
  9. Put block back into fruiting conditions, you should get at least 1 more “flush” of mushrooms from the block. If pins do not form at the cut site, consider opening the plastic at the site of the largest set of pins for subsequent flushes and sealing the original site with tape.

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Pearl Oyster block- Instructions for use:

This information is specific to Pearl Oyster.

  1. Check your block upon arrival to make sure there are no tears or signs of mold from shipping. If the block has broken into pieces during shipping, gently press the block together and let sit 4-7 days undisturbed (ideally in the dark) before moving to step 2.
  2. Slice a 1-2″ slit into the bag or a 1″ “X” into the side of the block. Be careful not to cut into the block itself and just cut the plastic.
  3. Fold down the top of the bag and deflate the block, tape the top down so that there is minimal room between the block and plastic except where the cut was made.
  4. Place the Ready-to-Fruit block in the most humid part of your home (not in direct sunlight) or in a grow chamber or grow tent. The kitchen is a good household place in lieu of a dedicated fruiting chamber. Pearl oyster fruits best between 65-75°F.
    Search online for easy to make fruiting chambers: monotubs, shot gun fruiting chambers (SGFCs) and tents with foggers/humidifiers are all great options and will likely increase success in fruiting and producing healthy fruits. Even a trash bag with plenty of holes can be used to increase humidity! If the pearl oysters produced in a fruiting chamber have large stems and small caps, more air exchange is needed.
  5. 2X daily (or more if your environment is dry) spritz the plastic with distilled/filtered water where the cut was made and look for mushroom “pins”. These are the start of mushrooms! Pins should take ~1-2 weeks to develop from the time of opening the bag.
  6. Continue to mist the fruits and plastic while they grow. Pearl Oysters are usually ready to harvest ~3-7 days after pins form and should be harvested before the caps flatten out or become concave for tastiest results.
  7. Cut the mushroom cluster from the block and enjoy for your next meal!
  8. Soak the block in fresh, cold, distilled/filtered water for 1-6 hours while inside the bag (pour into the opening) and then drain
  9. Put block back into fruiting conditions, you should get at least 1 more “flush” of mushrooms from the block. If pins do not form at the cut site, consider opening the plastic at the site of the largest set of pins for subsequent flushes and sealing the original site with tape.

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Pink Oyster block- Instructions for use:

This information is specific to Pink Oyster.

  1. Check your block upon arrival to make sure there are no tears or signs of mold from shipping. If the block has broken into pieces during shipping, gently press the block together and let sit 4-7 days undisturbed (ideally in the dark) before moving to step 2.
  2. Slice a 1-2″ slit into the bag or a 1″ “X” into the side of the block. Be careful not to cut into the block itself and just cut the plastic.
  3. Fold down the top of the bag and deflate the block, tape the top down so that there is minimal room between the block and plastic except where the cut was made.
  4. Place the Ready-to-Fruit block in the most humid part of your home (not in direct sunlight) or in a grow chamber or grow tent. The kitchen is a good household place in lieu of a dedicated fruiting chamber. Pink oyster fruits best between 70-85°F.
    Search online for easy to make fruiting chambers: monotubs, shot gun fruiting chambers (SGFCs) and tents with foggers/humidifiers are all great options and will likely increase success in fruiting and producing healthy fruits. Even a trash bag with plenty of holes can be used to increase humidity! If the pink oysters produced in a fruiting chamber have large stems and small caps, more air exchange is needed.
  5. 2X daily (or more if your environment is dry) spritz the plastic with distilled/filtered where the cut was made and look for mushroom “pins”. These are the start of mushrooms! Pins should take ~1-2 weeks to develop from the time of opening the bag.
  6. Continue to mist the fruits and plastic while they grow. Pink Oysters are usually ready to harvest ~5-10 days after pins form and should be harvested before the caps flatten out or become concave for tastiest results.
  7. Cut the mushroom cluster from the block and enjoy for your next meal!
  8. Soak the block in fresh, cold, distilled/filtered water for 1-6 hours while inside the bag (pour into the opening) and then drain
  9. Put block back into fruiting conditions, you should get at least 1 more “flush” of mushrooms from the block. If pins do not form at the cut site, consider opening the plastic at the site of the largest set of pins for subsequent flushes and sealing the original site with tape.

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Red Reishi block- Instructions for use:

This information is specific to Red Reishi.

  1. Check your block upon arrival to make sure there are no tears or signs of mold from shipping. If the block has broken into pieces during shipping, gently press the block together and let sit 4-7 days undisturbed (ideally in the dark) before moving to step 2.
    Red Reishi has notoriously leathery and sometimes yellowish mycelium.
    For antlers, go to step 2
    For conks, go to step 3
  2. (For antlers) Pull the top of the bag up so that it sits upright as much as possible.- Go to step 5
  3. (For conks) Slice a 1-2″ slit into the bag or a 1″ “X” into the side of the block. Be careful not to cut into the block itself and just cut the plastic.
  4. Fold down the top of the bag and deflate the block, tape the top down so that there is minimal room between the block and plastic except where the cut was made.
  5. Place the Ready-to-Fruit block in the most humid part of your home (not in direct sunlight) or in a grow chamber or grow tent. The kitchen is a good household place in lieu of a dedicated fruiting chamber. Red Reishi fruits best between 70-85°F.
    Search online for easy to make fruiting chambers: monotubs, shot gun fruiting chambers (SGFCs) and tents with foggers/humidifiers are all great options and will likely increase success in fruiting and producing healthy fruits. Even a trash bag with plenty of holes can be used to increase humidity!
    Antlers are produced inside the bag, they will grow towards the light source. They do not need to be kept in a humid environment or spritzed. Eventually the top of the bag can be cut and put into a fruiting chamber and conks will form if that is what is wanted.
  6. If cut, spritz the plastic with distilled/filtered water where the cut was made 2X daily (or more if your environment is dry) and look for mushroom “pins”. These are the start of mushrooms! Pins should take ~2-3 weeks to develop from the time of opening the bag and will look like a white/yellow blob that grows outside the opening. Antlers will look like white/yellow blobs forming on the top surface of the block, towards the top where the air is.
  7. If cut, continue to mist the fruits and plastic while they grow. Red reishi are slow growing and are usually ready to harvest 6-8 weeks after pins form and should be harvested before too many spores are produced (conks) or when the antlers lose the white tips and stop growing or begin to grow and conk outside the filter patch.
  8. Cut the conk or antlelrs cluster from the block and enjoy as a tincture or as a dried supplement (see below warning)
  9. Soak the block in fresh distilled/filtered water for 1-6 hours while inside the bag (pour into the opening) and then drain from the bag.
  10. Put block back into fruiting conditions, you should get at least 1 more “flush” of mushrooms from the block. If pins do not form at the cut site, consider opening the plastic at the site of the largest set of pins for subsequent flushes and sealing the original site with tape.

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Shiitake Block- Instructions for use:

This information is specific to Shiitake.

  1. Check your block upon arrival to make sure there are no tears or signs of mold from shipping. If the block has broken into pieces during shipping, gently press the block together and let sit 4-7 days undisturbed (ideally in the dark) before moving to step 2.
  2. Let the block finish maturing. After 1-6 weeks the block will begin to “popcorn” where bulbs form on the outside and it will also begin to brown on the outside (sometimes getting nearly completely brown).
  3. Induce pinning: To induce pinning the best option is to first slap the block and then put into the fridge for 12-24 hours (a “cold shock”). Literally slap the block on all sides (this is thought to stimulate a dead tree falling and is a practice used for centuries!) and put in a part of the fridge where it will not freeze. If a fridge is not available than try to move the blocks to the coldest room of your home, a garage/basement/crawl space, or even possibly outside it should be sufficient. You want the blocks to get at least 5-10°F less than where they will be fruiting.
  4. Once the block has been cold shocked, let sit at room temp for 24 hours. After 24 hours at room temp, remove the block from the bag entirely and place into fruiting conditions. Consider doing this over your sink and rinsing the block with cold water if there is any liquid in the bag.
  5. Place the Ready-to-Fruit block in the most humid part of your home (not in direct sunlight) or in a grow chamber or grow tent. The kitchen is a good household place in lieu of a dedicated fruiting chamber. Shiitake fruits best between 60-70°F but may fruit at ~50-75/80°F.
    Search online for easy to make fruiting chambers: monotubs, shot gun fruiting chambers (SGFCs) and tents with foggers/humidifiers are all great options and will likely increase success in fruiting and producing healthy fruits. Even a trash bag with plenty of holes can be used to increase humidity!
  6. 2X daily (or more if your environment is dry) spritz the block with filtered/distilled water and look for mushroom “pins”. These are the start of mushrooms! Pins should take ~3-14 days to develop after the cold shock.
  7. Continue to mist the fruits and block while they grow. Shiitake are usually ready to harvest ~4-10 days after pins form and should be harvested before the caps flatten out and begin to drop spores. Earlier harvesting (once the cap opens) can be ideal as the fruits are tastier and less fibrous, but it will decrease yields. See below for example on mushrooms ready for harvest.
    Image below is from @fungi_am_i who grew this culture around 71°F

    Shiitake mushrooms grown by customer at 71 degrees F
    Shiitake mushrooms!
  8. Cut the mushrooms from the block and enjoy for your next meal!
  9. To get another flush of mushrooms, allow the block to dry out for 2-4 weeks. It should be done in an area where the block is exposed (like a wire rack) or turn the block every 1-3 days to avoid moisture building on the bottom. The block should nearly completely dry out.
  10. After the block is dried, Soak the block in fresh, cold, distilled/filtered water for ~24 hours. You may need to put a heavy plate on the block to submerge it.
  11. After 24 hours soak, slap each side of the block and put the block back into fruiting conditions; you should get at least 1 more “flush” of mushrooms from the block.

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Sporeless Oyster Block- Instructions for use
:

This information is specific to Sporeless Oyster.

  1. Check your block upon arrival to make sure there are no tears or signs of mold from shipping. If the block has broken into pieces during shipping, gently press the block together and let sit 4-7 days undisturbed (ideally in the dark) before moving to step 2.
  2. Slice a 1-2″ slit into the bag or a 1″ “X” into the side of the block. Be careful not to cut into the block itself and just cut the plastic.
  3. Fold down the top of the bag and deflate the block, tape the top down so that there is minimal room between the block and plastic except where the cut was made.
  4. Place the Ready-to-Fruit block in the most humid part of your home (not in direct sunlight) or in a grow chamber or grow tent. The kitchen is a good household place in lieu of a dedicated fruiting chamber. Sporeless oyster fruits best between 60-70°F but may fruit at ~55-75°F.
    Search online for easy to make fruiting chambers: monotubs, shot gun fruiting chambers (SGFCs) and tents with foggers/humidifiers are all great options and will likely increase success in fruiting and producing healthy fruits. Even a trash bag with plenty of holes can be used to increase humidity! If the Sporeless oysters produced in a fruiting chamber have large stems and small caps, more air exchange is needed.
  5. 2X daily (or more if your environment is dry) spritz the plastic with filtered/distilled water where the cut was made and look for mushroom “pins”. These are the start of mushrooms! Pins should take ~1-2 weeks to develop from the time of opening the bag.
  6. Continue to mist the fruits and plastic while they grow. Sporeless Oysters are usually ready to harvest ~3-7 days after pins form and should be harvested before the caps flatten out or become concave for tastiest results.
  7. Cut the mushroom cluster from the block and enjoy for your next meal!
  8. Soak the block in fresh, cold, distilled/filtered water for 1-6 hours while inside the bag (pour into the opening) and then drain
  9. Put block back into fruiting conditions, you should get at least 1 more “flush” of mushrooms from the block. If pins do not form at the cut site, consider opening the plastic at the site of the largest set of pins for subsequent flushes and sealing the original site with tape.

 

What is MESH

Why do you need to use MESH for card payments?

There has been a lot of mycophobia surrounding spore microscopy products. As such, many credit card processors will not work with us and many other spore vendors, causing a loss of card processing. MESH allows us to accept cards and begin to create a history of card use for spores, which may be the change this industry needs to support growth. We would love to provide traditional card processing where you enter your card directly on the website and that is the end goal; however, until a company is able to support us in that way, we are pleased to allow customers the chance to use their card through MESH. Many other companies that cannot be supported through traditional card processing are beginning to use MESH- search the below text and you’ll find other companies that support MESH with difficult to fund products. MESH charges fees to allow card processing of products that do not have normal card processing that MushroomMan Mycology does not receive (see bottom of page) so we offer at least 1 freebie with all MESH orders.

What is MESH?

MESH is a simple and secure method for online purchases.  MESH brings the Customer and the Merchant inside the same financial institution to handle real-time payments that might not otherwise be able to be processed using credit or debit cards.

The following steps are what you can expect using MESH. If you are already a MESH account holder you can expect your transaction to takes less than a minute from start to finish.

1) Login to your Mesh account.  (If you don’t currently have a MESH account, system will guide you setting up your MESH account during the checkout process.  This typically takes under a minute.)
2) Fund your MESH account with a MESH load pack. (MESH accepts VISA, Discover, and Mastercard)
Please note– The MESH charge on your card/bank statement will be discrete. Your order charge will show up as “Plexconnect”. PLEASE recognize that “Plexconnect” is the MESH transaction with this store.

3) Activate MESH load pack

4) Complete your purchase.  You’re not yet finished until you complete your purchase and return to the shopping cart with confirmation.
5) MESH confirms your funds transfer directly with the Merchant.

MESH Customers use an FDIC insured bank account to directly purchase and pay for online purchases from participating merchants.  Since MESH Customers have a real FDIC insured checking account they can load funds via Paypal or an external checking account.  If you can send funds to a checking account, then you can fund your MESH account.

MESH IS SECURE.  MESH never shares your personal information with any 3rd party other than the bank where your MESH checking account resides.  Opening a MESH account has no impact on credit scores, nor is the information shared with any credit reporting agency.  Also, MESH confirms each purchase with 2 factor authentication to your mobile phone, so your funds are safe from unauthorized use.

For additional information and customer service please visit www.mymesh.money

  • Please note that there are fees associated with MESH that MushroomMan Mycology does not receive. At this time (Aug 2021) the customer can expect to pay a 12-15% fee on top of the total from MushroomMan Mycology. To show my appreciation for customers using MESH and paying these fees, all orders receive at least 1 free spore syringe when using MESH and additional freebies are offered for large orders with larger fees. THANK YOU

 

 

Past Variety Descriptions

Ban Hua Thanon- Ban Hua Thanon originated on the Thailand island of Koh Samui. This variety was first domesticated in Europe before being sent to John Allen and spread around the world. Some great Thai genetics with some mutants.

Golden Cluster Fuck F3- Veritas Mycology developed GCF- it is derived from Golden Teacher and the selection criteria were clustered fruits. These spores are only F3, so the strain is new and unstable, but it is an interesting genetic snapshot for your spore library!

Tidal Wave F3– Tidal Wave is an F3 cross of PE and B+. The prints are dark and this variety doesn’t need to be swabbed. Note that this is not a stable variety as it is only F3. A very interesting batch of genetics for any spore library!

Wikidzon- Wikidzon is an interesting variety with a convoluted past. It is rumored to be a strain developed from PESA; however, it hasn’t been verified.

Wollongong– As the name suggests, Wollongong originated south of Sydney in Australia. This is one of the few Australian strains available, grab it for your spore library today!

Cordyceps militaris growing guide

Here are some pointers to get folks started cultivating Cordyceps militaris at home. I am selling nutrients and cultures so get your cordy on!

Containers– a great first container are quart mason jars with a modified lid to allow for gas exchange. Any PP5 container is also usable as long as there is 3-6 inches of head space above substrate and there is a gas exchage port in the lid. The cordyceps cultivation kit allows users to make 10-15 quart jars worth of substrate.

Substrate– Rice. Brown or white, grain length doesn’t matter too much. Nutrient broth- contains amino acids, minerals, and nutrients that promote cordyceps growth and fruit body formation

Nutrient notes: The nutrients are sent as either a 1 L or 0.5 L bag which is premixed. The nutrient mix is NOT blended, thus you must use the entire bag when making the notated volume. You must add the entire 1 L bag to 1 L of water, and let fully dissolve. I like to rinse the bag to get all nutrients.
After you have made a broth and the nutrients are fully mixed, it can be aliquoted and frozen for future use, or used within 12 hours.

Procedure after purchasing the Kit:

If you have experience with agar than I recommend putting the wedge to a new agar plate to grow out and expand.

Follow steps 1-3 if you do not have a Liquid Culture (LC) recipe to use. If you have your own go to step 4 as you can save the 0.5 L mix from the kit to make additional jars of the substrate with.

1) Use 0.5L bag of premix to make 0.5 L of LC. Add entire bag of contents to hot water, tap or distilled, and let all dissolve- a hot water bath and mixing can help this.

2) Pressure cook nutrient broth at 15 psi for 30-45 minutes. Follow instructions for your sterilizer.

3) Once cool to room temperature, inoculate with the provided agar wedge. Let grow 3-21 days with agitation until fully colonized with lots of mycelium within the mixture.

4) Prepare substrate- Use premix bag to make 1 L of nutrient broth (5 cups rice, 10 quart jar containers worth, scalable). Add hot water, tap or distilled, and let all dissolve- a hot water bath can help this.

5) Add ~1/2 cup dried rice to the bottom of each quart jar (X10). Add 100 mL of broth to rice. Swirl gently to mix.

6) Pressure cook the rice/liquid mixture for 60 minutes at 15 psi. I recommend adding foil to the top of the jars and only cooking as many as can sit upright in your PC.

7) Once cool, use ~1-5 mL of LC to inoculate each jar.

8) Let sit in complete darkness for ~1-3 weeks.

9) After full colonization, Move to well light room (6500k). You will see growth over the next 2-4 weeks of the fruitbodies. You may want to rotate jars depending on the location of your light source as they will lean towards it.

10) Show off your jars/fruits to me/others!

11) Once the fruit bodies are beginning to sporulate, they are ready to harvest. They can then be dried or used fresh. Consult your healthcare provider after educating yourself with the uses and doses. I cannot recommend daily doses at this time but you should start low and infrequently at first to ensure you have no negative allergic reactions.

Homogenization explanation

I want to explain what I mean when I say “well homogenized” when discussing spore syringes (and many other microscopic items) and why you shouldn’t worry when you see a “clear” syringe!

Spores are microscopic- a single spore is around 10 microns, the average human hair is around 70 microns thick so you can appreciate just how small they are! When spores are stirred in the distilled water solution via magnetic stir bar/plate (see my imgur videos and this one in particular) they get pulled into solution and will separate into smaller and smaller clumps, sometimes becoming so small they are nearly invisible.

Very well homogenized samples will have almost no visible clumps; however, the spore solution will be “dirty” looking and have a purple-ish tint and on close inspection over a white background will have some visible clumps.

Fear not! The purpose of these microscopy samples is to study them under the scope; once you get the spores onto a slide and check them out (I suggest 400X on a compound scope) you won’t have any trouble seeing the spores. Remember to shake well before use!

Note- Do NOT overcompensate volume because they appear “clear”- you run the risk of ruining your slide prep with too much water and wasting solution.

This information is for educational purposes only

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